[LA] Nong Khiaw – What I love about it

Nong Khiaw is by far my favorite place in Laos. The Banana Pancake trail has left its mark, and it draws more Western visitors than the quieter Udomxay. It hits you the moment you arrive – Westerners, backpacks in tow, outnumbering the locals. Tour operators and fruit shake stalls line the main street, and English graces the menu and signboards. I generally shun overly touristy spots and opt for places offering a more genuine and authentic experience. So I wondered if I would enjoy Nong Khiaw. Three days in, my perspectives shifted.

Forget the touristy façade; Nong Khiaw has a magnetic pull. For me, it’s all about those serene bungalows, the exhilarating viewpoint hikes, and the captivating side trip to Muang Ngoi. These experiences make Nong Khiaw an absolute gem! There are indeed good reasons for Nong Khiaw’s popularity and I will happily revisit if the opportunity comes by.

Here’s a Google Earth image of Nong Khiaw. Look at the meandering Nam Ou River and the surrounding mountains, how not to love a place like this?

1. Relaxing bungalows at backpacker-friendly prices

There are plenty of riverside bungalows at Nong Khiaw at great prices, affordable even for those on a budget like me! These bungalows are simple unpretentious spaces with no flashy designs. However, they immerse you in the tranquil surroundings and offer a truly relaxing experience.

Having been used to staying in dormitory-style accommodation, the bungalows are delightful and offer unparalleled comfort. They provided me with a restful place to recharge and unwind from all the traveling I was doing. I can easily envision myself spending a leisurely afternoon, unwinding on the porch with a good book, embraced by the serene beauty of nature and the backdrop of the flowing river and majestic limestone karst mountains. It’s like having a secret hideaway in the heart of nature.

The best part about this is they don’t burn a hole in your pocket! A night at one of these bungalows costs from 150k kip to upwards of 300k kip, translating to just 8 USD for a modest bungalow without air conditioning. With a 20 USD/night budget, you can get a newer bungalow with a better view and air conditioning. I stayed at two different accommodations in Nong Khiaw, for one night each, and paid 150k per night.

Tip: Book your accommodation beforehand via WhatsApp to secure a place! Places tend to run out, especially during the weekends as Nong Khiaw is popular with local tourists from Luang Prabang as well.

2: Amazing Viewpoint Hikes

Nong Khiaw is surrounded by nature; its viewpoints offer breathtaking vistas of the surrounding natural beauty, characterized by lush greenery, the winding Nam Ou River, and dramatic limestone karst mountains. The hike to these elevated vantage points is steep and strenuous but worthwhile for the great panoramic views. Reach the peaks at either sunrise or sunset for even better views! At sunrise, you may even have the chance to experience being above the clouds!

Here is a non-exhaustive list of the viewpoints: Pha Daeng viewpoint, Labluebang viewpoint, Pha Kao viewpoint, Phar Kew Lom viewpoint, and Sleeping Lady viewpoint (aka Nang None viewpoint)

There is an entrance fee of 20k – 40k kip (as of Nov 2023) for each of these viewpoints which goes towards the maintenance of the trails. The trails have varying degrees of popularity and the Pha Daeng viewpoint seems to be the most popular one.

Some visitors aim to cover as many of the viewpoints as possible while others are contented with accomplishing one. For me, I did two of the viewpoints – the Phar Kew Lom viewpoint, and the Sleeping Lady viewpoint and a review of these two viewpoints can be found here.

3: Side trip to Muang Ngoi

Muang Ngoi is a small charming village nestled along the banks of the Nam Ou River. Accessible by boat from Nong Khiaw, Muang Ngoi offers a serene escape surrounded by lush green landscapes and dramatic limestone cliffs. Providing a more secluded and tranquil experience than Nong Khiaw, it is an ideal destination for those seeking a peaceful escape and a break from modernity.

From Muang Ngoi, you can venture by foot to more remote villages such as Ban Na and Ban Hoy San for an even more rustic and authentic experience. With the number of shops catering to tourists in Muang Ngoi, I’d hesitate to label the village as authentic. However, the compact and rustic village has its charm and I liked the feeling of seclusion.

Unlike the accommodations in Nong Khiaw, most places in Muang Ngoi do not offer air conditioning. Fortunately, electricity, cellular connection, and hot water are all still available in Muang Ngoi. On the other hand, for a truly rural lifestyle with no hot water, electricity, or cellular connection, head to Ban Na village.