[LA] Oudomxay: How to spend your time in the Transportation Hub

Reading time: 7 minutes

Arrival & Departure from Oudomxay

Nestled at a pivotal juncture, Oudomxay province, with its capital Muang Xai, serves as a vital transportation hub. The province is well-linked by a network of mountainous routes including 13, 2E, and 2W, as well as the Laos-China Railway (LCR), boasting a train station in Muang Xai. Given its strategic location between popular destinations like Luang Namtha, Nong Khiaw, and Luang Prabang, travellers venturing through Northern Laos by land are likely to traverse Oudomxay.

Train / Railway

The first time I visited Muang Xai, I took the railway from Luang Prabang. Once I exited the train station, there were numerous Tuk-tuks for hire. Distance to the town centre was 3.1 km and the asking rate was 30k kip as of November 2023. You may share the tuk-tuk with other passengers that the driver picks up along the way.

Bus / Minivan

The second time I visited Muang Xai, I arrived by mini-van which stopped at the newer southern bus station, located 5.6 km from the town centre. As of Nov 2023, this was the main bus station for journeys in and out of Muang Xai, such as to/from Pak Mong (en route to Nong Khiaw), Luang Prabang, Huay Xai, Dien Bien Phu, Hanoi, etc.

• The asking rate to get to the bus station from town is 50k kip as of Nov 2023. However, beware of drivers attempting to hike up prices for trips from the bus station, especially if you are alone. Initially, I was quoted more than 100k kip for the trip from the bus station to town. Eventually, I managed to find two travellers going to town to share the tuk-tuk for 90k kip (i.e. 30k kip per pax).
• Note that the bus schedule listed below may not be accurate. Thus, it is best to check with the locals, such as the folks at the tourism centre beforehand. Whilst the stated departure for the bus to Pak Mong was 10.30 am, its actual departure was 9.30 am.
• Remember to arrive an hour early to have enough time to get a ticket and good seats. Seat numbers, allocated first-come-first-serve, are written on the tickets.
• The minivans in Laos tend to be cramped and overpacked. Squeezing 21 pax into a minivan meant for 16 pax was the norm. Couple that with a long and winding journey through the hills, the rides are not something worth looking forward to. So at least, try for a good seat.

Where I stayed & ate in Oudomxay

Stay

Arriving in Muang Xai without pre-booked accommodation, I relied on Google Maps to find a place to stay. I had done this throughout my journey in Laos since most accommodation places are not listed on booking websites.

In the absence of hostels, I opted for the top-rated Litthavixay Guesthouse which is conveniently located on the main road. Despite its basic amenities showing signs of wear, the guesthouse was budget-friendly and provided a clean and satisfactory stay on both occasions I visited Oudomxay.

In Oudomxay, the impact of Chinese investment is unmistakable. From bustling supermarkets to shifts in agriculture, the landscape is changing. Chinese-owned businesses dominate, and signs advertising corn and herbs in Chinese and Laotian hint at the region’s evolving agricultural scene. Conversations reveal how local farmers are adapting, transitioning from cotton to corn cultivation. Yet, alongside economic opportunities, there’s a palpable concern for preserving Laotian culture and heritage. Udomxay is at a crossroads of transformation, where tradition meets modernity, inviting travellers to witness its evolving identity firsthand.

Eat

Across the road, Vannasin Fast Food Restaurant sells delicious pork leg rice at an affordable price of 35k kip. Their menu is more extensive than just pork leg – including curry, fried eggs, noodles, and chicken rice among others. I’ve also tried their stir-fried vegetables with crispy pork, but I enjoyed the pork leg rice way better. They are open from 7 am to 7 pm daily so it’s a convenient place to have a meal.

There aren’t many, if not any, roadside stalls (in push carts) along the main road in Udomxay. I was tempted to try when I spotted one not far from the Lao Red Cross Sauna & Massage. Eating at one of these roadside stalls always makes for an authentic and ‘local’ experience. This roadside stall sells grilled chicken gizzards for 10k kip per stick served with herbs. There were plenty of options, including the heart, liver, backside, wings, feet, and intestines on top of some others that I do not recognise.

Where I went in Oudomxay

Chom Ong Cave

Chom Ong Cave stands as a testament to Laos’ natural beauty and geological wonders, boasting an impressive length of around 17 km. As one of the longest caves in Laos and Southeast Asia, its vast chambers, measuring between 15 to 50 meters wide and 25 to 100 meters high, offer a breathtaking spectacle for adventurers and nature enthusiasts alike.

Thanks to recent infrastructure improvements funded by the Asian Development Bank, reaching the cave became more convenient for tourists. The completion of the paved road along the loop route from Muang Xai in December 2021 made the journey more accessible. Further, the first 800 meters of the cave are equipped with electricity, lighting, and paved cement stairs, ensuring ease of entry and enhancing safety for visitors.

For the more adventurous souls, customized private caving and trekking tours are available beyond the initial tourist-accessible section of the cave. Guides from the nearby Chom Ong Village lead these tours, offering a unique and immersive experience for those seeking a deeper exploration of the cave’s hidden treasures.

Location and access

Located just 47 kilometres from the town centre of Muang Xai, Chom Ong Cave is easily reachable by motorbike, making it an ideal day trip destination. The scenic route to and from the cave takes travellers through charming villages, providing glimpses of local life along the way. One memorable highlight was encountering adorable piglets crossing the road as I navigated through one of the villages on my bike.

During my visit in Nov 2024, the route was mostly well-paved and devoid of heavy traffic. This was a relief for a novice rider like myself. However, there were a few challenging sections of dirt roads at the beginning of the route. I even experienced a minor mishap when transitioning from a well-paved road to a bumpy dirt path, but overall, the journey was manageable even for beginner riders.

The combination of the scenic peaceful route and the awe-inspiring grandeur of Chom Ong Cave easily made it the highlight of my time in Oudomxay.

Renting a motorbike

For bike rental, I approached the tourism information centre and they were very helpful with it. These are the details:

• The daily rental rate was 150k kip per day for a manual motorbike excluding gasoline, an automatic motorbike costs more at 200k kip as of November 2023
• The staff from the tourism information centre will contact the rental company to bring the motorbike over
• Check the motorbike and do a test ride.
• If you confirm that you want to rent the motorbike, the staff will sign a Laotian contract with the rental company and you will sign an English contract with the tourism centre. Remember to take photographs of the motorbike too.
• You will pay the rental costs and place a deposit – I left my passport with them
• Although the agreement specified returning the motorbike by 5:30 pm before the centre closed, the staff graciously accommodated my late return, instructing me to contact him via WhatsApp when I was ready to return the motorbike.
• When you return the motorbike, the rental company representative will inspect the bike and do a test ride on it

This was not only my first time renting a motorbike but also my first time riding a manual one. The staff taught me about the gears on the spot and reminded me to test the motorbike before signing the rental papers. Eventually, I crashed and fell from the bike on a bumpy section and returned with dirt on the bike and my pants. When asked, I admitted to falling from the bike, but fortunately, they did not ask for any compensation since the motorbike was functioning fine.

Check the gallery below for the map of the loop route to Chom Ong Cave! I navigated to the cave via the Maps.Me application.

Exploring the cave

Upon reaching Ban Chom Ong (or Chom Ong Village), the Chom Ong Cave is merely another 2 km away on a side road. Clear signposts guide the way, and upon arrival, the ticketing entrance awaits just beyond the car park. For those requiring refreshments, stalls selling snacks and drinks are available in the car park. I opted to park my motorbike by the roadside to avoid the parking fee.

Admission to the cave costs 20k kip, which includes a mandatory guide to lead you through the first 800 meters. The tourist-friendly infrastructure, complete with lighting, cemented stairs, pathways, and informative boards, makes exploring the cave accessible and enjoyable. Despite the language barrier with my guide, his willingness to point out intriguing stalagmite and stalactite formations, some of which resembled curious shapes, added to the experience.

During my visit, few other visitors were around and the cave was surprisingly deserted. I encountered a Lao couple at the entrance, but once inside, I had the cave mostly to myself. The guide unlocked the gates for my exclusive exploration and locked them behind me, further enhancing the sense of solitude. It seemed that the local government’s efforts to promote tourism hadn’t yet matched the level of visitor interest, possibly due to limited marketing. For those seeking tranquil and less-crowded attractions, Chom Ong Cave is a perfect choice. Visit soon to enjoy its serene beauty before it becomes more widely known!

Sauna & Massage at Lao Red Cross

For a straightforward and refreshing retreat in Oudomxay, consider heading to the Red Cross Sauna and Massage Center. Nestled conveniently close to the town centre, this humble sanctuary is open daily from 3 pm to 7:30 pm, inviting visitors to relax and recharge. Priced affordably at 50k kip for an hour-long massage and 20k kip for entrance to the sauna, the centre offers a no-frills experience. With just three sauna rooms and one massage area, partitioned for privacy, it exudes a cosy and intimate atmosphere. Locals frequent the spot, often enjoying complimentary warm herbal tea post-sauna.

Upon arrival, guests receive a ticket for their chosen service and a complimentary sarong. Basic lockers and toilets are available. Though, if preferred, massages can be done in your clothes. The sauna rooms are adjacent, with one designated for ladies.

Having tried both the sauna and massage offerings on separate occasions, I found the experience positively authentic. After a session in the sauna, taking in the view of the hilly town while breathing in the crisp, fresh air was especially rejuvenating. However, I must note that the experience was simple. For example, while it provided relaxation, mosquitoes frequently interrupted my massage. As my masseur attempted to fend them off with a sarong or her hands, I was reminded of the centre’s humble setting. Nevertheless, for travellers seeking a down-to-earth relaxation experience in Oudomxay, the Red Cross Sauna and Massage Center offers a peaceful escape.

Phouthat Stupa

Phouthat Stupa is a popular sunset location in Muang Xay town centre. However, my visit was largely disappointing as there was not much of a view from the top of the hill. Overall, not much wow factor and will recommend giving it a pass if time is a constraint.